HYDROSEEDING

WHAT IS HYDROSEEDING?

Hydroseeding (hydraulic mulch seeding, hydro-mulching) is the application of a water-based slurry mixture of seed, mulch, fertilizer, and other additives applied simultaneously under pressure over PREPARED SOIL for seeding grasses, ground covers, wildflowers and/or virtually any other plant that can be grown from seed.

Just about any place where the ground has been disturbed from construction activities or natural disasters you will find hydroseeders being used to establish or re-establish lawns, ground covers, wildflowers and vegetation. Hydroseeding is practical for residential lawns to large-scale projects and virtually anything in between. It is often used as a highly effective erosion control technique to keep the soil from eroding away due to wind and rain.

WHEN CAN YOU HYDROSEED (TIMING)?

Hydroseeding can be completed any time of year, provided that the ground is not frozen or snow covered. The conventional time for hydroseeding is when it is cool but not cold, when daytime air temperatures range between 15 - 24 degrees Celsius (59 - 75 degrees Fahrenheit), and ground temperatures are at least 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit), and you are expecting a realistic amount of rainfall. The rain will help defray the costs of supplemental watering.

Most lawn, ground cover, wildflower and vegetation seeds have built in self defence mechanisms, which inhibits germination when temperatures are outside these ranges and may remain dormant until temperatures are back within these ranges. Therefore, Spring and Fall seasons are widely accepted as the best time to hydroseed.

SPRING: Takes advantage of spring rains and cooler temperatures making for particularly good growing conditions. The disadvantage is that if spring is followed by a dry hot summer, it may take more watering to keep it establishing and thriving in the hot summer.
SUMMER: Unless you have an abundant and cheap source of water its best not to hydroseed in the summer. There is not much point in fighting off hot temperatures if it is possible to avoid it.
FALL: Takes advantage of the warm daytime and cool night temperatures for good growing conditions. This gives the seed time to set up before winter sets in. The seed will go dormant in the winter and then have the rain and cooler temperatures of spring to give it a good start before a hot summer.

HOW MUCH DOES HYDROSEEDING COST?

Hydroseeding will typically cost less than sod, but more than broadcast (Dry) seeding making it a cost effective planting solution. Regrettably, hydroseeding has “NO” set pricing due to the critical information required for every project to create an accurate estimate. The critical information required is:

Size of Project (In acres/hectares or square feet/square meters)
Location (Where is the job located)
Accessibility Conditions (Roadside, Hose Pull, Limited and/or Restricted)
Application Conditions (Slope and/or Grade)
Material Requirements (Mulch, seeds, tackifiers, fertilizers, additives etc.)

Should you be given a square foot and/or square meter price for hydroseeding quickly, some of this critical information may have been overlooked.

WHAT GROUND PREPARATION IS REQUIRED?

Not “PROPERLY PREPARING” the ground prior to hydroseeding is one of the most common and major mistakes affecting the overall results. Most seeds require a fine textured, loose soil surface so the small roots of the seed embryo can penetrate and take hold. The extent of the ground preparation required depends entirely upon your soil test results, ground conditions and the type of hydroseeding application. You can have the finest seed and best fertilizer, but poor ground preparation can lead to inadequate results. The ground should be prepared not more than five to seven days prior to the hydroseeding operation to avoid re-compaction of soil.

“DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE TRUE VALUE OF GOOD AND PROPER GROUND PREPARATION”

NEW APPLICATIONS: Require a bare loose soil surface of 2-4 inches of quality soil , removal of all grasses, vegetation, rocks, and debris. In order for seed to germinate it must be in direct contact with the bare loose soil. Not having 2-4 inches of a bare loose quality soil surface can lead to wash out and poor germination.
OVERSEEDING APPLICATIONS: Require cutting down as short as possible all existing grasses and vegetation, removal of all rocks, debris, a power raking (Dethatching) to remove dead/decaying vegetation (Thatch), which also scarifies (Loosens) the soil. This makes room for the new seed and allows the new seed’s small roots take hold and grow deep. In order for seed to germinate it must be in direct contact with the loosened soil.

WILL HYDROSEEDING WASH AWAY?

If the soil has been properly prepared and the right hydroseeding mulch was applied for the applicable terrain it should not wash away after the mulch has cured under normal weather conditions.

WHAT TYPE OF HYDROSEEDING APPLICATION IS BEST?

There are two different types of hydroseeding applications available, so it is important to choose the application type best suited for your project.

NEW: Is hydroseeding on bare loose soil without any existing grass, vegetation and/or ground cover. It can also be highly effective for erosion control on hillsides and sloped areas when using BFM and/or FRM mulches.
OVERSEEDING: Is hydroseeding over existing grass, vegetation/ground cover. However, prior to the introduction of BIOTIC SOILS, it was not recommended because the slurry mixture needed to be the exactly right consistency so as not to kill the existing grass, which was often the biggest risk taken when hydroseeding over established grass, ground cover and/or vegetation.

IS HYDROSEEDING SAFE?

"YES", hydroseeding is a safe and non-toxic. No harsh chemicals are used in the hydroseeding process; therefore, making it safe to use around children and animals.

WHEN CAN I WALK ON HYDROSEEDING?

A newly seeded area can be walked on within 24-36 hours after the application once the mulch has fully cured (Dried) to perform planned maintenance. As much possible, keep children, pets and wildlife off the area and prevent any unwanted foot traffic until the germination of the grass, groundcover and/or vegetation is complete and the germinated and grass, groundcover and/or vegetation has started to establish.

HOW LONG BEFORE USE?

It is good to keep children, pets and wildlife off a newly seeded area until the germination stage is complete and the grass, groundcover and/or vegetation has started to establish. This should be about 3 to 5 weeks depending upon the variety of seed. Unnecessary foot traffic should be kept to a minimum.

WHEN WILL I SEE GRASS?

Depending upon the seed type and climate, weather is mild and watering and/or rainfall amounts are sufficient, on average most lawn grasses take between 7 and 14 days for germination and should be ready for the first mowing in 4 to 6 weeks. On the other hand, if the weather is dry and cool, germination will take longer than the average. This is only a guideline and soil moisture, and environmental conditions will dictate the actual length of plant establishment.

DOES HYDROSEEDING HAVE TO BE WATERED?

Allow 24 hours after the application for the slurry to cure (dry) before watering. For most lawn grasses plan to water newly hydroseeded areas 2-3 times a day for roughly 10-20 minutes each time for 7-14 days. You do not want puddling and/or runoff, just enough to thoroughly moisten the seed bed. Insufficient or overwatering may have adverse affects on seed germination and establishment. Newly hydroseeded areas should not go without water for no more than a day or two.

WHAT MAINTENANCE IS REQUIRED?

A post-seeding maintenance program is essential, and you must stick to it. If not, everything done was a waste of time and money. The program (12 Month) should consist of proper watering, mowing, fertilizer and weed control.

The most important requirement is proper watering.
- When the new seed has grown to an average of 3” it is time to perform the first cutting.
- Set the mower between 3” to 3 1/2”. Do not cut more than ¾” off at any one time.
- Allow the clippings to drop down, so they can decompose to provided food and help to keep the soil from drying out.
- Prior to mowing for the first time, allow the area to dry out just so the mower will not leave ruts. Mowing stimulates growth and increases thickness.
Do not apply any type of weed control product for at least 8 (Eight) to 12 (Twelve) weeks after seeding. The product will have adverse affects on the new seedlings. Weeds are in the soil and germinate faster than most grasses; however, over time with proper maintenance most weeds will be eventually choked out and be controllable as competition from the maturing plants increases.
About one month after hydroseeding, fertilize your new lawn using a 8-32-16, fertilizer. Once established, follow a fertilizer maintenance program of 4-6 times per year, should be sufficient.

WHAT IS THE BEST SEED?

The purpose for hydroseeding, of course, is to grow grass, groundcover, wildflowers and/or vegetation, so select a seed or seed blend that both grows well in your area and has the texture and color you want. Be sure to do your research on what grass appeals to you and what grows well in your area before you plant.

We recommend seed blends because the annual seeds germinate quickly to provide erosion control and protect the slower germinating perennial seeds.

WHICH HYDRAULIC MULCH IS BEST?

Other than ground preparation the hydraulic mulch is the most critical element of the hydroseeding so ensure the mulch you choose can provide the results, you need. When cured the mulch stabilizes the soil, keeps the seed in place, retains moisture, maintains temperature during the seed’s germination period and also protects the seed from the elements. This is essential so the small roots of the seed’s embryo can take hold. Therefore, choosing the right mulch is imperative for success. The type(s) and amount of mulch used for any hydroseeding project depends entirely upon the upon the aforementioned key factors for the job being done. The main types of mulch are:

CELLULOSE: Is made from recycled newspaper can be used on virtually any slope/grade from flat to < 3H:1V but has minimal to “NO” water retention and/or erosion control capabilities without additives such as tackifier and interlocking fibers.
WOOD/PAPER BLENDS: Provide better soil bonding and moisture retention than cellulose mulch and can be used on virtually any slope/grade of flat to < 3H:1V. With additional erosion control measures, they can be used on slopes of < 1H:1V.
BFM/FRM MULCHES: Are highly effective for erosion control on hillsides and sloped areas to reduce runoff velocity, the potential for sheet erosion and rill formation and other inconvenient consequences caused by erosion. They can be used on virtually any slope/grade flat to < 1H:1V. With Turf Reinforcement Mats and/or Slope Interruption Devices slopes of > 0.5H:1V.
BIOTIC SOILS: Are specifically designed to aid in building an effective plant growth medium over poor soil and/or subsoils. They can be used on virtually any slope/grade flat to < 3H:1V without additional erosion control measures. With additional erosion control measures, they can be uses on slopes of < 1H:1V and with the use of Turf Reinforcement Mats and/or Slope Interruption Devices slopes of > 0.5H:1V.

IS HYDROSEEDING GUARANTEED OR WARRANTIED?

In most situations there is "NO" guarantee or warranty for hydroseeding because it is a planting process. Soil type, quality, and condition have the greatest influence on the germination, establishment, and sustainability.

However, if prior to the application an "INDPENDANT THIRD-PARTY SOIL TEST" was completed and the soil was adjusted to reflect the soil’s condition. There is a one-time, free of charge, repair and/or replacement warranty against application defects for the remainder of the calendar year from the time of completion with proof of post application maintenance (watering, weeding, fertilizing, proper mowing, etc.)

Don't forget to download your Hydroseeding - Before & After Care document